Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold online to Cylinder Head Repair Clamp discount for Select Models (OE FIX) outlet online sale

Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold online to Cylinder Head Repair Clamp discount for Select Models (OE FIX) outlet online sale

Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold online to Cylinder Head Repair Clamp discount for Select Models (OE FIX) outlet online sale
Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold online to Cylinder Head Repair Clamp discount for Select Models (OE FIX) outlet online sale__below

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4-Year Auto Accessory Protection Plan

from Allstate Protection Plans
$6.99 4.3 out of 5 stars (2915)
  • Plan starts on the date of purchase. Product breakdowns and malfunctions are covered after manufacturer''s warranty.
  • No additional costs for repairs - parts, labor, and shipping are all included.
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From the manufacturer

Dorman is a leading auto parts manufacturer founded in the United States and headquartered in Colmar, Pennsylvania.

Our story began with the first mass market automobile. We were one of the first companies to deliver replacement products for the automotive aftermarket, and we remain at the forefront today.

We give repair professionals and vehicle owners greater freedom to fix cars and trucks by focusing on solutions that save time and money and increase convenience and reliability.

Our team is constantly looking for problems to solve and turning them into new product ideas. Some solutions, like our OE FIX products, you can't even get from original vehicle manufacturers.

We offer an always-evolving catalog of parts, covering both light duty and heavy duty vehicles, from chassis to body, from underhood to undercar, and from hardware to complex electronics.

Description

When an exhaust manifold bolt breaks, repairing it with original equipment usually requires removing the entire cylinder head. This Dorman OE FIX repair clamp creates a seal without needing to extract the broken stud.

Features & details

Features

  • Innovative fix - this exhaust manifold to cylinder head repair clamp fixes a leaking exhaust due to broken manifold bolts
  • Complete kit - comes with clamp and bolts for solid repair
  • Quality engineering - designed in the United States and backed by decades of automotive aftermarket experience
  • Simplifies repair - this external clamping solution creates seal by attaching directly to cylinder head, without needing to extract original studs
  • Ensure fit – to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the Amazon Garage

Product information

    Additional Information

  • ASIN: B00GHT9L4O
  • Customer Reviews: 4.7 out of 5 stars 773Reviews
  • Best Sellers Rank:
    #25,331 in Automotive (See Top 100 in Automotive)
    #8 in Automotive Replacement Exhaust Manifolds
  • Domestic Shipping : Item can be shipped within U.S. International Shipping : This item can be shipped to select countries outside of the U.S. Learn More
  • Date First Available: November 7, 2013
Manufacturer’s warranty can be requested from customer service. Click here to make a request to customer service.
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Value for money 4.7 4.8 4.7 4.4
Sheerness 4.7 4.9 4.0 4.0
Easy to install 3.3 4.5 4.0 3.6
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Q: Will this work on both sides of the engine on the rear?

A: No, it works on the left rear, or on the right front for the 1999-up 4.8/5.3/6.0/6.2 V8 (t…

Jeff C. | 7 years ago

Q: What mm wrench will I need to install

A: The bolts have a 15mm head.

Manufacturer Technical Team | 2 years ago

Q: Will this fit a 99 f350 v10

A: HiLooking at your question I would say you’re looking for a Ford 350 in one of those big V…

Scott neskey | 2 years ago

Q: Will this fit a 2014 Chevy Silverado 5.3

A: Yes it will fit a 2014 Silverado 5.3. Three of them go on within five minutes real quick t…

Scott neskey | 2 years ago

Customer reviews

4.7 out of 54.7 out of 5
773 global ratings

Reviews with images

Top reviews from the United States

AGR
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
It may sound too good to be true...but I Promise you my Friend, IT WORKS!
Reviewed in the United States on September 16, 2015
Are your blissful drives being annihilated by that famous "Chevy Exhaust Tick"? Well if this just happens to be you (don''t feel bad, I was there too...) the solution to your problems may just be here! My All-American Chariot featuring Chevy''s 6.0 Liter V8 just... See more
Are your blissful drives being annihilated by that famous "Chevy Exhaust Tick"? Well if this just happens to be you (don''t feel bad, I was there too...) the solution to your problems may just be here! My All-American Chariot featuring Chevy''s 6.0 Liter V8 just happened to not be as special as I had previous thought. Turns out it has many of the same issues that most Chevy 6.0 V8''s have such as the all too common issue of the Exhaust manifold bolts not being able to handle all of that raw uncensored power. Two of the manifold bolts on the Drivers side rear of the engine had came to their demise leaving a tick screaming "fix me". My mechanic gave me a prognosis that stopped me dead in my tracks and my wallet running for cover. Turns out to fix this the ol'' fashion way you better be ready to fork over quite a few greenbacks. Just the thought of shelling out so many of those Big Benjamin''s left me consulting my 2nd favorite Mechanic: Google! Little bit of research online and I was starting to feel a little better about this situation I was in. Turns out I had just joined an "elite" group of individuals all connected by that rhythmic ceremonial event, and hey misery loves company right?! Well don''t be miserable too long there my friend, Turn that Frown Upside down and get your fix on! This little black wonder has me questioning for the first time whether size really does matter.

Installation:

If your afraid of getting a little dirt under your nails, My friend this piece of hardened steel is not for you. Go back to your pajama party singing "hollaback girl" with all your little sissie friends. If your ready to get down and dirty and install this little wonder I can promise you one thing: This thing will put you in more awkward positions than that 9th grade wine cooler party that had you playing twister with your best friends sister.... You''ll first try it from the top reaching down, then you''ll try reaching up from the bottom only to find that either way, this is not going to be as easy as it looked. One suggestion I can share with you (one that I won''t admit to being from experience...) is to wait quite a few hours after you''ve drove your beast. I mean Hell, I''ll be the first to admit, Whether it''s All-American Buffalo Wings or my choice in Shotgun Riders I like it hot! But this my friend is not one of those situations, so just tame your excitement of getting your Red White & Blue petroleum guzzling beast back on the road and spend some time doing some manly stuff while you wait.

After you start trying to get this little bugger on I can promise you that you''ll be glad you waited cuz let me tell you, you''ll need some patience to get this thing on. But don''t worry, unless your the type that needs to stop halfway through and go get your "Pumpkin Spice Latte" you''ll get it on there! After your finished and it''s all bolted up you''ll be feeling like $1000 bucks! No Really, You will, cuz that''s pretty darn close to how much you might of spent if you took your prized pick-em-up truck to the dealer...
78 people found this helpful
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Charles Hurley
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
5.3l 4wd install tips
Reviewed in the United States on August 1, 2018
5.3l 4wd tahoe. Great part but incredibly difficult to install because of the lack of clearance. The following is what finally worked for me after hours of frustration. Be prepared to walk away and find your calm place several times. You are trying to thread 2 bolts that... See more
5.3l 4wd tahoe. Great part but incredibly difficult to install because of the lack of clearance. The following is what finally worked for me after hours of frustration. Be prepared to walk away and find your calm place several times. You are trying to thread 2 bolts that you can barely touch with your fingers tips into 2 holes you can''t see in a place with no room for a socket or a wrench. Expect frequently dropped bolts and parts. You will have to work from the top and bottom and go back and forth many times. Best advice came from ernies review. Dropping the front driveshaft on a 4wd was best tip of all. Heres what I wound up doing. Jack up tahoe just enough my gut can fit underneath. Remove 4 11mm on front of drive shaft. Slide driveshaft back and let it hang. You don''t need to remove it. I needed some wd40 and a prybar to break it loose from rust up front. You can now see the two bolt holes on the head that you can only feel from the top. Remove the heat shield! It''s a pain and you''ll only gain maybe a 1/4 inch of clearance but you''ll need every bit of it. 3 10mm nuts hold the heat shield on. Two you can see and reach from the bottom. The third is hidden behind the steering column and you''ll need to get it from up top. Now the hardest thing for me was trying to hold the part in place while trying to fish blindly for the bolt holes. The weight of the part makes it want to fall just when you think you are about to tread the bolt. To solve this I used smaller bolts as pegs to pin the bracket into the bolt holes. The 11mm ones from the driveshaft worked great. I used a magnetic pick up tool to hold the bracket in place while I pegged it with the smaller bolts. This way it was in place and the weight was supported so all I had to do was work one bolt at a time. I went up top and found I now had just enough clearance to get a thumb and finger on the top bolt. I took the peg bolt and threaded in the top bolt. I finger tightened it and went back underneath. With the bracket held in place it was much easier to start the lower bolt. I wound up using a 14mm socket, a wobble and about 18"s of 3/8 extensions to thread it in. You can do it with a wrench but expect to move it a 1/16th turn at a time. I snugged up both bolts with a wrench once they were all the way in. There is no clearance for a torque wrench and it''s not needed anyway. These bolts are side loaded and firmly seated is enough. It was now easy to go up top and install the clamping bolt with tread locker. I hope something in this helps you. It''s a good part and a great solution. I know how to pull the heads and the broken bolts. This was just as good. Best part is you can walk away at any point and still have a driveable vehicle. When pulling heads you are likely to break or snap something. If you don''t have another vehicle you are then stranded. Good luck, take your time and trust me it will work....eventually :-)
17 people found this helpful
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Justin Bond
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Exhaust tick solved on 6.0L V8 in 2005 Suburban.
Reviewed in the United States on April 30, 2017
This worked great on my 2005 6.0 liter Suburban. After letting the engine cool over night (that step is important), this was a quick bolt on. I started with the top bolt on the rear drivers side of the head, only getting it hand tight, then I crawled under my Suburban and... See more
This worked great on my 2005 6.0 liter Suburban. After letting the engine cool over night (that step is important), this was a quick bolt on. I started with the top bolt on the rear drivers side of the head, only getting it hand tight, then I crawled under my Suburban and installed the lower bolt on the back of the head. I only used a 9/16"
closed wrench due to space. A ratcheting wrench would have been better. Taking my time, I slowly tightened the bottom bolt and then moved up to the top bolt, accessing it from above. After tightening both bolts, I inserted and tightened the third bolt that presses against the manifold. Upon starting the engine, the noisy tick of my exhaust was gone, all in about 30 minutes.
22 people found this helpful
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Kindle Customer
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Awesome fix
Reviewed in the United States on December 31, 2017
Read the many reviews and decided it was time to order as I was tired of exhaust noise on start up. I was able to install this from the bottom of truck. I drove truck up on ramps and worked from the bottom. Did not see that removing fender well on that side would be easy.... See more
Read the many reviews and decided it was time to order as I was tired of exhaust noise on start up. I was able to install this from the bottom of truck. I drove truck up on ramps and worked from the bottom. Did not see that removing fender well on that side would be easy. My truck had a ground bonding strap bolted into head where the top bolt of bracket goes. Removed it with ratcheting wrench and then installed the bottom bolt to hold bracket in place. Then I put bonding strap on bolt and worked bolt into the hole in the head. Not much room and took about 5 minutes but it worked. Used a racheting wrench and regular closed end wrench to tighten it. No way to get torque wrench in that space so just went as far as I could go with wrench. Used the red locktite on all bolts as per instructions. Started truck and no more exhaust noise!! These work really well and I finished job in half hour by installing from underneath truck. Saved lots of time.
7 people found this helpful
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Greg B.
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Thank God for the easy install.
Reviewed in the United States on August 25, 2019
It went easier than expected, and holds the manifold securely. Saved a min of $300.00. Forget trying to install this from the bottom as others have done. Get a heavy blanket to cover the engine compartment and then place a table or thick piece of plywood over the... See more
It went easier than expected, and holds the manifold securely. Saved a min of $300.00.
Forget trying to install this from the bottom as others have done.
Get a heavy blanket to cover the engine compartment and then place a table or thick piece of plywood over the top that will hold you up.
Climb up and lay diagonally across so your arms are in perfect position for easy access from the top. Use 9/16” box end ratchet wrench and regular box end wrench. Do it when the engine is cold.
I have big hands, and it still took less than 20 min for the rear bracket and about same time for the front one. Easy Peasy. :@)
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 6.0L
9 people found this helpful
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William Brown
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Install tip
Reviewed in the United States on August 24, 2019
This part worked as advertised. I suggest that you look carefully for the existence of the exhaust manifold gasket around the missing bolt before you purchase this. If the gasket is gone it will not seal your leak. My tip on a Tahoe 5.3 is that you do the bulk of the... See more
This part worked as advertised. I suggest that you look carefully for the existence of the exhaust manifold gasket around the missing bolt before you purchase this. If the gasket is gone it will not seal your leak. My tip on a Tahoe 5.3 is that you do the bulk of the work from under the vehicle. Yes, to the removal of the front drive shaft and that heat shield. Also, this part seems to be balanced so that if you do the top bolt first and just let it hang loose, the bottom bolt hole will be right where the hole in the part is located. Of course the vehicle must be level, side to side. Yes, this is a pain to install but it saves a lot of money when the broken bolt is the left rear like mine. The alternative is to pull off the entire cylinder head. That is a thousand dollars most places and several hundred if you do it yourself. You will also break most of the exhaust bolts getting the manifolds off and have to do tricky extractions. This part is a deal!
4 people found this helpful
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Tucker
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Good old Chevy tick its gone! Silverado 2500 HD
Reviewed in the United States on May 31, 2020
Well, you are reading this is probably because your Chevy sounds like a Chevy i.e. the classic header tick tick tick. I stalled this to a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD but it will fit basically any LS engine (5.3, 6.0, 6.2 etc). Prior to my manifold head bolts sheering off,... See more
Well, you are reading this is probably because your Chevy sounds like a Chevy i.e. the classic header tick tick tick. I stalled this to a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD but it will fit basically any LS engine (5.3, 6.0, 6.2 etc). Prior to my manifold head bolts sheering off, I did not know this is actually a very common problem for LS engines... Way to go Chevy, have a known problem and still use crap manifold bolts. Its so common that Dorman has this band aid fix to save you hundreds fixing.

FIRST, I want to clarify the part numbers and locations to be installed because some of the reviews are misleading. The are 2 different brackets to be used depending on which of your manifold bolt heads sheared off.
Dorman 917-107 (This product) - Locations to be installed is for either the drivers side rear or passengers side front.
Dorman 917-142 (looks completely different) - Locations to be installed is either the driver side rear or passengers side front.
The reason is because the heads are basically the same but rotated 180 degrees. So be sure you get the correct part.

Top bolt:
Okay, now to the installation. I had BOTH rear manifold bold head sheered off, so I needed both part numbers mentioned above. But this is the installation for the drivers side rear (917-107). As you will read from other reviews, it is in fact a pain in the butt. The heads are so close to the fire wall I was left with some scratched up knuckles from holding the fire was back to try to get the top bolt threaded. Note used some anti seize on the bolts. Anyways, you do want to start with the top bolt and come from the top of the engine. My truck (2009 Silverado 2500HD), already had a bolt with a ground strap attached to it (I believe that one was a 14mm, the bolts for this kit is a 9/16"). I removed that bolt (easy part) then you have to do a dance of holding the bracket with the ground strap, pushing the fire wall back and trying to find the hole (Come on, we''ve all been there) for the top bolt. It will depend on what vehicle you are working on as to where to position your body, but for my applicable I was basically sitting in the spare battery tray (where the second battery would go for a Duramax diesel). I have also seen pictures of some people laying on top of the engine. Anyways, it took my on the order of 10-15 minutes of doing this dance to finally get the treads started on the top bolt (by hand, no tools yet). I then started to tighten the bolt using a 9/16" ratcheting wrench (This tool is pretty key in saving time). There is not enough room with the bracket, bolt and fire wall to fit a socket wrench down there, so a normal box wrench is really you only choice and having a ratcheting one makes this WAY easier than a standard box wrench that you would have to line up basically a 1/8th of a turn because that is all the room you have. If you don''t have a ratcheting 9/16" wrench, you are on Amazon... Add it to your cart. I did not tighten it all the way, you want to leave it loose to the bracket is still kinda dangling for the bottom bolt. Thankfully with the top bolt threaded in, it does align the bottom hole of the bracket to the proper mounting position for the bottom bolt.

Bottom bolt:
I have head mixed ways of getting to the bottom bolt, some come from the top others the bottom. For my application there was absolutely no way to get at it from the top, so I went from the bottom. If you have beef cake arms, I really don''t know how you will do it, but I have pretty slim arms and had just enough arm length to wedge it between the exhaust down pipe and torsion spring. Its a very awkward position, but I was able to get the bolt threaded. I then used a 9/16" socket with 2 swivels and about 24" worth of extensions to tighten the bolt because the location is to hard to get to... To confirm your thoughts, YES it did look sketchy but it works. There is no way to get a toque wrench either bolts, so get them pretty snug but don''t reef on them. If you strip the threads or sheer the bolt then you have just bought yourself into a head repair, which is the whole reason to buy this band aid fix anyways. After the bottom one was snug, I went back to the top bolt and snugged that one down with the ratcheting wrench.

Lastly the final bolt you want to use some high temp loctite and torque to spec (I think it was like 18 lbs-ft). That one is simple enough and straight forward. After I completed both sides and started the truck it was significantly better, but I gave and extra one flat turn on the bolt to the manifolds past the recommended torque just to give it a little extra sealing.

The whole process took about an hour.

Tick tick tick is gone so the brackets do work. The brackets really are more expensive than they should be (around $30), but it sure beats the price of removing the head.
2 people found this helpful
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Nitrousbird
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Fits fine on the GM L92 6.2L engine
Reviewed in the United States on September 7, 2018
Dorman claims this is only for the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0L. Yet it has spent a year on my ''07 Escalade EXT''s front passenger exhaust manifold, which has the 6.2L L92. That also means it will fit the LS3 as they share the same heads and probably fits any GEN-III and GEN-IV SBC;... See more
Dorman claims this is only for the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0L. Yet it has spent a year on my ''07 Escalade EXT''s front passenger exhaust manifold, which has the 6.2L L92. That also means it will fit the LS3 as they share the same heads and probably fits any GEN-III and GEN-IV SBC; perhaps even the GEN-V DI motors, though I''ve never worked on one of those (yet)...hopefully GM has finally figured out how to use a proper bolt by now.

Don''t forget to replace ALL the bolts; I recommend the ARP header bolts as they are strong and won''t break like the crap GM bolts, which is common for all of these motors. A good penetrating oil (Kano Kroil is my choice) should be soaked on them first. Good oil does NOT mean WD-40, PB Blaster, etc. It''s always better to get the old bolt out whenever possible then trying to use these devices. Mine was sadly broken off before I had a chance to fix the issue.
2 people found this helpful
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Top reviews from other countries

Just north of Kenora
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
HOLY CR-P that was hard to install..BUT worth the effort!
Reviewed in Canada on August 26, 2020
I read a zillion reviews and watched several youtube videos on installing this I KNEW IT WAS A CHALLENGE...however... it was way harder than I had envisioned. On DAY 1..I tried to do it without help and wasted 4 VERY frustrating hours and some seriously scraped arms,...See more
I read a zillion reviews and watched several youtube videos on installing this I KNEW IT WAS A CHALLENGE...however... it was way harder than I had envisioned. On DAY 1..I tried to do it without help and wasted 4 VERY frustrating hours and some seriously scraped arms, fingers etc. On DAY 2.. I removed the front drive shaft from the front diff and moved it aside, no need to pull it from the transfer case and most importantly got help (my wife),, she worked from the top maneuvering the clamp so I could insert the bottom bolt (from underneath the truck), that took about 30 minutes. Once the first bolt was in place she used a stick to push the heat shield back as I swung the clamp) it was already on the lower bolt) and into position. That was another 30 minutes of painful contortions and then it was installed... they were installed and tightened from below... another NEAR IMPOSSIBLE task... I just tightened all I could manage with A 14MM BOX END RATCHETING WRENCH. Then up top, installed the tensioning bolt and was shocked to see it push the manifold in at least 1/4 inch, maybe more... LEAK SOLVED! There are references to torque values BUT there is NO WAY a torque wrench can fit on the bolts so just tightened the he-- out of the back ones as well as the tensioning bolt. Also no way to get anti-seize on the back bolts... since the truck is already 20 yrs old I suspect this repair will outlive it.
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Shawn
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
"Patience is a virtue"
Reviewed in Canada on January 17, 2019
Great product. 03 Yukon awd .Fixed my annoying exhaust leak (rear drivers ). You will need some anti seize for the two bolts going in the back. Some thread locker for the bolt going to the manifold. An assortment of 14mm wrenches as the rear bolts are a nightmare to get...See more
Great product. 03 Yukon awd .Fixed my annoying exhaust leak (rear drivers ). You will need some anti seize for the two bolts going in the back. Some thread locker for the bolt going to the manifold. An assortment of 14mm wrenches as the rear bolts are a nightmare to get started and tightened. Have the bolt that goes against the manifold just started to thread. Its not fun to get it in once you have the rear bolts in. You will invent new swear words before the job is complete. But in the end you will succeed and no more tick, tick.
2 people found this helpful
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dnl
3.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Installation tips, modify the bolts
Reviewed in Canada on March 5, 2021
2003 GMC Sierra 4.8 auto 4WD. **Install LOWER bolt first.** The bolts are a bit too long, and they should have a tapered tip. SOLUTION: **Put a thread Die on the bolt before cutting/tapering** - Cut the "Upper" bolt about 2 threads, grind the tip to a 45-60 degree partial...See more
2003 GMC Sierra 4.8 auto 4WD. **Install LOWER bolt first.** The bolts are a bit too long, and they should have a tapered tip. SOLUTION: **Put a thread Die on the bolt before cutting/tapering** - Cut the "Upper" bolt about 2 threads, grind the tip to a 45-60 degree partial cone shape. - Cut the "Lower" bolt about 4 threads, grind the tip to a 45-60 degree partlai cone shape. NOTE: The tip should be BLUNT, like your fingertip. DO NOT grind it to a point, just enough to help the bolt find the hole in the engine. Scuff the top edge of the bolt shoulder/collar with a coarse file to increase grip for fingers. Install both bolts from top. Use a thick folded blanket or lawn chair cushion etc so you can lay across the top of the engine comfortably. Remove Brake booster vacuum hose from brake booster and PCV valve+hose from valve cover and tuck them out of the way. If you have fabric noise insulation against firewall, cut it under the brake booster and pull it towards center of the truck, jam it against back of engine out of the way. - Upper bolt, use a flex-head gear wrench (14mm). - Lower bolt, use a long reach open end wrench (14mm) from underneath the vehicle. Yes, you can barely get the wrench on, but it can be done without removing front driveshaft. If needed, undo front driveshaft U-Joint caps and move it out of the way.
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Danny
2.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Decent product, tough installation.
Reviewed in Canada on September 28, 2018
Good product, however it’s anything but easy to install, it involved bending heat shields, taking heat shields off, taking drive shaft off, drilling holes through the fire wall. Good product however those holes in the engine head were not so easy to acces. Don’t buy this...See more
Good product, however it’s anything but easy to install, it involved bending heat shields, taking heat shields off, taking drive shaft off, drilling holes through the fire wall. Good product however those holes in the engine head were not so easy to acces. Don’t buy this thinking it’s going to take 10 mins to install, however great product! And it eliminated the ticking sound of exhaust leaking from the headers where a bolt was broke off.
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Black Nali
4.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Good fix for gm''s poor LS series exhaust stud problem
Reviewed in Canada on August 30, 2017
Exactly as described. Good fix for gm''s poor LS series exhaust stud problem. Always driver side rear bolt. Installed on my truck from the top but many people find it easier from bottom. My truck being awd and extremely low it was easier from top. Expect to drop the bolt...See more
Exactly as described. Good fix for gm''s poor LS series exhaust stud problem. Always driver side rear bolt. Installed on my truck from the top but many people find it easier from bottom. My truck being awd and extremely low it was easier from top. Expect to drop the bolt that goes into the back of the head a couple times. You will use new vocabulary you didn''t know existed. Probably better to make sure kids are not around. Lol. Patience is key here and a good ratcheting wrench.
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Dorman is a leading auto parts manufacturer founded in the United States and headquartered in Colmar, Pennsylvania.

Our story began with the first mass market automobile. We were one of the first companies to deliver replacement products for the automotive aftermarket, and we remain at the forefront today.

We give repair professionals and vehicle owners greater freedom to fix cars and trucks by focusing on solutions that save time and money and increase convenience and reliability.

Our team is constantly looking for problems to solve and turning them into new product ideas. Some solutions, like our OE FIX products, you can't even get from original vehicle manufacturers.

We offer an always-evolving catalog of parts, covering both light duty and heavy duty vehicles, from chassis to body, from underhood to undercar, and from hardware to complex electronics.

Description

When an exhaust manifold bolt breaks, repairing it with original equipment usually requires removing the entire cylinder head. This Dorman OE FIX repair clamp creates a seal without needing to extract the broken stud.

Features & details

Features

  • Innovative fix - this exhaust manifold to cylinder head repair clamp fixes a leaking exhaust due to broken manifold bolts
  • Complete kit - comes with clamp and bolts for solid repair
  • Quality engineering - designed in the United States and backed by decades of automotive aftermarket experience
  • Simplifies repair - this external clamping solution creates seal by attaching directly to cylinder head, without needing to extract original studs
  • Ensure fit – to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the Amazon Garage

Product information

    Additional Information

  • ASIN: B00GHT9L4O
  • Customer Reviews: 4.7 out of 5 stars 773Reviews
  • Best Sellers Rank:
    #25,331 in Automotive (See Top 100 in Automotive)
    #8 in Automotive Replacement Exhaust Manifolds
  • Domestic Shipping : Item can be shipped within U.S. International Shipping : This item can be shipped to select countries outside of the U.S. Learn More
  • Date First Available: November 7, 2013
Manufacturer’s warranty can be requested from customer service. Click here to make a request to customer service.
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Q: Will this work on both sides of the engine on the rear?

A: No, it works on the left rear, or on the right front for the 1999-up 4.8/5.3/6.0/6.2 V8 (t…

Jeff C. | 7 years ago

Q: What mm wrench will I need to install

A: The bolts have a 15mm head.

Manufacturer Technical Team | 2 years ago

Q: Will this fit a 99 f350 v10

A: HiLooking at your question I would say you’re looking for a Ford 350 in one of those big V…

Scott neskey | 2 years ago

Q: Will this fit a 2014 Chevy Silverado 5.3

A: Yes it will fit a 2014 Silverado 5.3. Three of them go on within five minutes real quick t…

Scott neskey | 2 years ago

Customer reviews

4.7 out of 54.7 out of 5
773 global ratings

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Top reviews from the United States

AGR
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
It may sound too good to be true...but I Promise you my Friend, IT WORKS!
Reviewed in the United States on September 16, 2015
Are your blissful drives being annihilated by that famous "Chevy Exhaust Tick"? Well if this just happens to be you (don''t feel bad, I was there too...) the solution to your problems may just be here! My All-American Chariot featuring Chevy''s 6.0 Liter V8 just... See more
Are your blissful drives being annihilated by that famous "Chevy Exhaust Tick"? Well if this just happens to be you (don''t feel bad, I was there too...) the solution to your problems may just be here! My All-American Chariot featuring Chevy''s 6.0 Liter V8 just happened to not be as special as I had previous thought. Turns out it has many of the same issues that most Chevy 6.0 V8''s have such as the all too common issue of the Exhaust manifold bolts not being able to handle all of that raw uncensored power. Two of the manifold bolts on the Drivers side rear of the engine had came to their demise leaving a tick screaming "fix me". My mechanic gave me a prognosis that stopped me dead in my tracks and my wallet running for cover. Turns out to fix this the ol'' fashion way you better be ready to fork over quite a few greenbacks. Just the thought of shelling out so many of those Big Benjamin''s left me consulting my 2nd favorite Mechanic: Google! Little bit of research online and I was starting to feel a little better about this situation I was in. Turns out I had just joined an "elite" group of individuals all connected by that rhythmic ceremonial event, and hey misery loves company right?! Well don''t be miserable too long there my friend, Turn that Frown Upside down and get your fix on! This little black wonder has me questioning for the first time whether size really does matter.

Installation:

If your afraid of getting a little dirt under your nails, My friend this piece of hardened steel is not for you. Go back to your pajama party singing "hollaback girl" with all your little sissie friends. If your ready to get down and dirty and install this little wonder I can promise you one thing: This thing will put you in more awkward positions than that 9th grade wine cooler party that had you playing twister with your best friends sister.... You''ll first try it from the top reaching down, then you''ll try reaching up from the bottom only to find that either way, this is not going to be as easy as it looked. One suggestion I can share with you (one that I won''t admit to being from experience...) is to wait quite a few hours after you''ve drove your beast. I mean Hell, I''ll be the first to admit, Whether it''s All-American Buffalo Wings or my choice in Shotgun Riders I like it hot! But this my friend is not one of those situations, so just tame your excitement of getting your Red White & Blue petroleum guzzling beast back on the road and spend some time doing some manly stuff while you wait.

After you start trying to get this little bugger on I can promise you that you''ll be glad you waited cuz let me tell you, you''ll need some patience to get this thing on. But don''t worry, unless your the type that needs to stop halfway through and go get your "Pumpkin Spice Latte" you''ll get it on there! After your finished and it''s all bolted up you''ll be feeling like $1000 bucks! No Really, You will, cuz that''s pretty darn close to how much you might of spent if you took your prized pick-em-up truck to the dealer...
78 people found this helpful
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Charles Hurley
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
5.3l 4wd install tips
Reviewed in the United States on August 1, 2018
5.3l 4wd tahoe. Great part but incredibly difficult to install because of the lack of clearance. The following is what finally worked for me after hours of frustration. Be prepared to walk away and find your calm place several times. You are trying to thread 2 bolts that... See more
5.3l 4wd tahoe. Great part but incredibly difficult to install because of the lack of clearance. The following is what finally worked for me after hours of frustration. Be prepared to walk away and find your calm place several times. You are trying to thread 2 bolts that you can barely touch with your fingers tips into 2 holes you can''t see in a place with no room for a socket or a wrench. Expect frequently dropped bolts and parts. You will have to work from the top and bottom and go back and forth many times. Best advice came from ernies review. Dropping the front driveshaft on a 4wd was best tip of all. Heres what I wound up doing. Jack up tahoe just enough my gut can fit underneath. Remove 4 11mm on front of drive shaft. Slide driveshaft back and let it hang. You don''t need to remove it. I needed some wd40 and a prybar to break it loose from rust up front. You can now see the two bolt holes on the head that you can only feel from the top. Remove the heat shield! It''s a pain and you''ll only gain maybe a 1/4 inch of clearance but you''ll need every bit of it. 3 10mm nuts hold the heat shield on. Two you can see and reach from the bottom. The third is hidden behind the steering column and you''ll need to get it from up top. Now the hardest thing for me was trying to hold the part in place while trying to fish blindly for the bolt holes. The weight of the part makes it want to fall just when you think you are about to tread the bolt. To solve this I used smaller bolts as pegs to pin the bracket into the bolt holes. The 11mm ones from the driveshaft worked great. I used a magnetic pick up tool to hold the bracket in place while I pegged it with the smaller bolts. This way it was in place and the weight was supported so all I had to do was work one bolt at a time. I went up top and found I now had just enough clearance to get a thumb and finger on the top bolt. I took the peg bolt and threaded in the top bolt. I finger tightened it and went back underneath. With the bracket held in place it was much easier to start the lower bolt. I wound up using a 14mm socket, a wobble and about 18"s of 3/8 extensions to thread it in. You can do it with a wrench but expect to move it a 1/16th turn at a time. I snugged up both bolts with a wrench once they were all the way in. There is no clearance for a torque wrench and it''s not needed anyway. These bolts are side loaded and firmly seated is enough. It was now easy to go up top and install the clamping bolt with tread locker. I hope something in this helps you. It''s a good part and a great solution. I know how to pull the heads and the broken bolts. This was just as good. Best part is you can walk away at any point and still have a driveable vehicle. When pulling heads you are likely to break or snap something. If you don''t have another vehicle you are then stranded. Good luck, take your time and trust me it will work....eventually :-)
17 people found this helpful
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Justin Bond
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Exhaust tick solved on 6.0L V8 in 2005 Suburban.
Reviewed in the United States on April 30, 2017
This worked great on my 2005 6.0 liter Suburban. After letting the engine cool over night (that step is important), this was a quick bolt on. I started with the top bolt on the rear drivers side of the head, only getting it hand tight, then I crawled under my Suburban and... See more
This worked great on my 2005 6.0 liter Suburban. After letting the engine cool over night (that step is important), this was a quick bolt on. I started with the top bolt on the rear drivers side of the head, only getting it hand tight, then I crawled under my Suburban and installed the lower bolt on the back of the head. I only used a 9/16"
closed wrench due to space. A ratcheting wrench would have been better. Taking my time, I slowly tightened the bottom bolt and then moved up to the top bolt, accessing it from above. After tightening both bolts, I inserted and tightened the third bolt that presses against the manifold. Upon starting the engine, the noisy tick of my exhaust was gone, all in about 30 minutes.
22 people found this helpful
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Kindle Customer
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Awesome fix
Reviewed in the United States on December 31, 2017
Read the many reviews and decided it was time to order as I was tired of exhaust noise on start up. I was able to install this from the bottom of truck. I drove truck up on ramps and worked from the bottom. Did not see that removing fender well on that side would be easy.... See more
Read the many reviews and decided it was time to order as I was tired of exhaust noise on start up. I was able to install this from the bottom of truck. I drove truck up on ramps and worked from the bottom. Did not see that removing fender well on that side would be easy. My truck had a ground bonding strap bolted into head where the top bolt of bracket goes. Removed it with ratcheting wrench and then installed the bottom bolt to hold bracket in place. Then I put bonding strap on bolt and worked bolt into the hole in the head. Not much room and took about 5 minutes but it worked. Used a racheting wrench and regular closed end wrench to tighten it. No way to get torque wrench in that space so just went as far as I could go with wrench. Used the red locktite on all bolts as per instructions. Started truck and no more exhaust noise!! These work really well and I finished job in half hour by installing from underneath truck. Saved lots of time.
7 people found this helpful
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Greg B.
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Thank God for the easy install.
Reviewed in the United States on August 25, 2019
It went easier than expected, and holds the manifold securely. Saved a min of $300.00. Forget trying to install this from the bottom as others have done. Get a heavy blanket to cover the engine compartment and then place a table or thick piece of plywood over the... See more
It went easier than expected, and holds the manifold securely. Saved a min of $300.00.
Forget trying to install this from the bottom as others have done.
Get a heavy blanket to cover the engine compartment and then place a table or thick piece of plywood over the top that will hold you up.
Climb up and lay diagonally across so your arms are in perfect position for easy access from the top. Use 9/16” box end ratchet wrench and regular box end wrench. Do it when the engine is cold.
I have big hands, and it still took less than 20 min for the rear bracket and about same time for the front one. Easy Peasy. :@)
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 6.0L
9 people found this helpful
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William Brown
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Install tip
Reviewed in the United States on August 24, 2019
This part worked as advertised. I suggest that you look carefully for the existence of the exhaust manifold gasket around the missing bolt before you purchase this. If the gasket is gone it will not seal your leak. My tip on a Tahoe 5.3 is that you do the bulk of the... See more
This part worked as advertised. I suggest that you look carefully for the existence of the exhaust manifold gasket around the missing bolt before you purchase this. If the gasket is gone it will not seal your leak. My tip on a Tahoe 5.3 is that you do the bulk of the work from under the vehicle. Yes, to the removal of the front drive shaft and that heat shield. Also, this part seems to be balanced so that if you do the top bolt first and just let it hang loose, the bottom bolt hole will be right where the hole in the part is located. Of course the vehicle must be level, side to side. Yes, this is a pain to install but it saves a lot of money when the broken bolt is the left rear like mine. The alternative is to pull off the entire cylinder head. That is a thousand dollars most places and several hundred if you do it yourself. You will also break most of the exhaust bolts getting the manifolds off and have to do tricky extractions. This part is a deal!
4 people found this helpful
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Tucker
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Good old Chevy tick its gone! Silverado 2500 HD
Reviewed in the United States on May 31, 2020
Well, you are reading this is probably because your Chevy sounds like a Chevy i.e. the classic header tick tick tick. I stalled this to a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD but it will fit basically any LS engine (5.3, 6.0, 6.2 etc). Prior to my manifold head bolts sheering off,... See more
Well, you are reading this is probably because your Chevy sounds like a Chevy i.e. the classic header tick tick tick. I stalled this to a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD but it will fit basically any LS engine (5.3, 6.0, 6.2 etc). Prior to my manifold head bolts sheering off, I did not know this is actually a very common problem for LS engines... Way to go Chevy, have a known problem and still use crap manifold bolts. Its so common that Dorman has this band aid fix to save you hundreds fixing.

FIRST, I want to clarify the part numbers and locations to be installed because some of the reviews are misleading. The are 2 different brackets to be used depending on which of your manifold bolt heads sheared off.
Dorman 917-107 (This product) - Locations to be installed is for either the drivers side rear or passengers side front.
Dorman 917-142 (looks completely different) - Locations to be installed is either the driver side rear or passengers side front.
The reason is because the heads are basically the same but rotated 180 degrees. So be sure you get the correct part.

Top bolt:
Okay, now to the installation. I had BOTH rear manifold bold head sheered off, so I needed both part numbers mentioned above. But this is the installation for the drivers side rear (917-107). As you will read from other reviews, it is in fact a pain in the butt. The heads are so close to the fire wall I was left with some scratched up knuckles from holding the fire was back to try to get the top bolt threaded. Note used some anti seize on the bolts. Anyways, you do want to start with the top bolt and come from the top of the engine. My truck (2009 Silverado 2500HD), already had a bolt with a ground strap attached to it (I believe that one was a 14mm, the bolts for this kit is a 9/16"). I removed that bolt (easy part) then you have to do a dance of holding the bracket with the ground strap, pushing the fire wall back and trying to find the hole (Come on, we''ve all been there) for the top bolt. It will depend on what vehicle you are working on as to where to position your body, but for my applicable I was basically sitting in the spare battery tray (where the second battery would go for a Duramax diesel). I have also seen pictures of some people laying on top of the engine. Anyways, it took my on the order of 10-15 minutes of doing this dance to finally get the treads started on the top bolt (by hand, no tools yet). I then started to tighten the bolt using a 9/16" ratcheting wrench (This tool is pretty key in saving time). There is not enough room with the bracket, bolt and fire wall to fit a socket wrench down there, so a normal box wrench is really you only choice and having a ratcheting one makes this WAY easier than a standard box wrench that you would have to line up basically a 1/8th of a turn because that is all the room you have. If you don''t have a ratcheting 9/16" wrench, you are on Amazon... Add it to your cart. I did not tighten it all the way, you want to leave it loose to the bracket is still kinda dangling for the bottom bolt. Thankfully with the top bolt threaded in, it does align the bottom hole of the bracket to the proper mounting position for the bottom bolt.

Bottom bolt:
I have head mixed ways of getting to the bottom bolt, some come from the top others the bottom. For my application there was absolutely no way to get at it from the top, so I went from the bottom. If you have beef cake arms, I really don''t know how you will do it, but I have pretty slim arms and had just enough arm length to wedge it between the exhaust down pipe and torsion spring. Its a very awkward position, but I was able to get the bolt threaded. I then used a 9/16" socket with 2 swivels and about 24" worth of extensions to tighten the bolt because the location is to hard to get to... To confirm your thoughts, YES it did look sketchy but it works. There is no way to get a toque wrench either bolts, so get them pretty snug but don''t reef on them. If you strip the threads or sheer the bolt then you have just bought yourself into a head repair, which is the whole reason to buy this band aid fix anyways. After the bottom one was snug, I went back to the top bolt and snugged that one down with the ratcheting wrench.

Lastly the final bolt you want to use some high temp loctite and torque to spec (I think it was like 18 lbs-ft). That one is simple enough and straight forward. After I completed both sides and started the truck it was significantly better, but I gave and extra one flat turn on the bolt to the manifolds past the recommended torque just to give it a little extra sealing.

The whole process took about an hour.

Tick tick tick is gone so the brackets do work. The brackets really are more expensive than they should be (around $30), but it sure beats the price of removing the head.
2 people found this helpful
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Nitrousbird
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Fits fine on the GM L92 6.2L engine
Reviewed in the United States on September 7, 2018
Dorman claims this is only for the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0L. Yet it has spent a year on my ''07 Escalade EXT''s front passenger exhaust manifold, which has the 6.2L L92. That also means it will fit the LS3 as they share the same heads and probably fits any GEN-III and GEN-IV SBC;... See more
Dorman claims this is only for the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0L. Yet it has spent a year on my ''07 Escalade EXT''s front passenger exhaust manifold, which has the 6.2L L92. That also means it will fit the LS3 as they share the same heads and probably fits any GEN-III and GEN-IV SBC; perhaps even the GEN-V DI motors, though I''ve never worked on one of those (yet)...hopefully GM has finally figured out how to use a proper bolt by now.

Don''t forget to replace ALL the bolts; I recommend the ARP header bolts as they are strong and won''t break like the crap GM bolts, which is common for all of these motors. A good penetrating oil (Kano Kroil is my choice) should be soaked on them first. Good oil does NOT mean WD-40, PB Blaster, etc. It''s always better to get the old bolt out whenever possible then trying to use these devices. Mine was sadly broken off before I had a chance to fix the issue.
2 people found this helpful
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Top reviews from other countries

Just north of Kenora
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
HOLY CR-P that was hard to install..BUT worth the effort!
Reviewed in Canada on August 26, 2020
I read a zillion reviews and watched several youtube videos on installing this I KNEW IT WAS A CHALLENGE...however... it was way harder than I had envisioned. On DAY 1..I tried to do it without help and wasted 4 VERY frustrating hours and some seriously scraped arms,...See more
I read a zillion reviews and watched several youtube videos on installing this I KNEW IT WAS A CHALLENGE...however... it was way harder than I had envisioned. On DAY 1..I tried to do it without help and wasted 4 VERY frustrating hours and some seriously scraped arms, fingers etc. On DAY 2.. I removed the front drive shaft from the front diff and moved it aside, no need to pull it from the transfer case and most importantly got help (my wife),, she worked from the top maneuvering the clamp so I could insert the bottom bolt (from underneath the truck), that took about 30 minutes. Once the first bolt was in place she used a stick to push the heat shield back as I swung the clamp) it was already on the lower bolt) and into position. That was another 30 minutes of painful contortions and then it was installed... they were installed and tightened from below... another NEAR IMPOSSIBLE task... I just tightened all I could manage with A 14MM BOX END RATCHETING WRENCH. Then up top, installed the tensioning bolt and was shocked to see it push the manifold in at least 1/4 inch, maybe more... LEAK SOLVED! There are references to torque values BUT there is NO WAY a torque wrench can fit on the bolts so just tightened the he-- out of the back ones as well as the tensioning bolt. Also no way to get anti-seize on the back bolts... since the truck is already 20 yrs old I suspect this repair will outlive it.
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Shawn
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
"Patience is a virtue"
Reviewed in Canada on January 17, 2019
Great product. 03 Yukon awd .Fixed my annoying exhaust leak (rear drivers ). You will need some anti seize for the two bolts going in the back. Some thread locker for the bolt going to the manifold. An assortment of 14mm wrenches as the rear bolts are a nightmare to get...See more
Great product. 03 Yukon awd .Fixed my annoying exhaust leak (rear drivers ). You will need some anti seize for the two bolts going in the back. Some thread locker for the bolt going to the manifold. An assortment of 14mm wrenches as the rear bolts are a nightmare to get started and tightened. Have the bolt that goes against the manifold just started to thread. Its not fun to get it in once you have the rear bolts in. You will invent new swear words before the job is complete. But in the end you will succeed and no more tick, tick.
2 people found this helpful
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dnl
3.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Installation tips, modify the bolts
Reviewed in Canada on March 5, 2021
2003 GMC Sierra 4.8 auto 4WD. **Install LOWER bolt first.** The bolts are a bit too long, and they should have a tapered tip. SOLUTION: **Put a thread Die on the bolt before cutting/tapering** - Cut the "Upper" bolt about 2 threads, grind the tip to a 45-60 degree partial...See more
2003 GMC Sierra 4.8 auto 4WD. **Install LOWER bolt first.** The bolts are a bit too long, and they should have a tapered tip. SOLUTION: **Put a thread Die on the bolt before cutting/tapering** - Cut the "Upper" bolt about 2 threads, grind the tip to a 45-60 degree partial cone shape. - Cut the "Lower" bolt about 4 threads, grind the tip to a 45-60 degree partlai cone shape. NOTE: The tip should be BLUNT, like your fingertip. DO NOT grind it to a point, just enough to help the bolt find the hole in the engine. Scuff the top edge of the bolt shoulder/collar with a coarse file to increase grip for fingers. Install both bolts from top. Use a thick folded blanket or lawn chair cushion etc so you can lay across the top of the engine comfortably. Remove Brake booster vacuum hose from brake booster and PCV valve+hose from valve cover and tuck them out of the way. If you have fabric noise insulation against firewall, cut it under the brake booster and pull it towards center of the truck, jam it against back of engine out of the way. - Upper bolt, use a flex-head gear wrench (14mm). - Lower bolt, use a long reach open end wrench (14mm) from underneath the vehicle. Yes, you can barely get the wrench on, but it can be done without removing front driveshaft. If needed, undo front driveshaft U-Joint caps and move it out of the way.
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Danny
2.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Decent product, tough installation.
Reviewed in Canada on September 28, 2018
Good product, however it’s anything but easy to install, it involved bending heat shields, taking heat shields off, taking drive shaft off, drilling holes through the fire wall. Good product however those holes in the engine head were not so easy to acces. Don’t buy this...See more
Good product, however it’s anything but easy to install, it involved bending heat shields, taking heat shields off, taking drive shaft off, drilling holes through the fire wall. Good product however those holes in the engine head were not so easy to acces. Don’t buy this thinking it’s going to take 10 mins to install, however great product! And it eliminated the ticking sound of exhaust leaking from the headers where a bolt was broke off.
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Black Nali
4.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Good fix for gm''s poor LS series exhaust stud problem
Reviewed in Canada on August 30, 2017
Exactly as described. Good fix for gm''s poor LS series exhaust stud problem. Always driver side rear bolt. Installed on my truck from the top but many people find it easier from bottom. My truck being awd and extremely low it was easier from top. Expect to drop the bolt...See more
Exactly as described. Good fix for gm''s poor LS series exhaust stud problem. Always driver side rear bolt. Installed on my truck from the top but many people find it easier from bottom. My truck being awd and extremely low it was easier from top. Expect to drop the bolt that goes into the back of the head a couple times. You will use new vocabulary you didn''t know existed. Probably better to make sure kids are not around. Lol. Patience is key here and a good ratcheting wrench.
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