Well, you are reading this is probably because your Chevy sounds like a Chevy i.e. the classic header tick tick tick. I stalled this to a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD but it will fit basically any LS engine (5.3, 6.0, 6.2 etc). Prior to my manifold head bolts sheering off,...
Well, you are reading this is probably because your Chevy sounds like a Chevy i.e. the classic header tick tick tick. I stalled this to a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD but it will fit basically any LS engine (5.3, 6.0, 6.2 etc). Prior to my manifold head bolts sheering off, I did not know this is actually a very common problem for LS engines... Way to go Chevy, have a known problem and still use crap manifold bolts. Its so common that Dorman has this band aid fix to save you hundreds fixing.
FIRST, I want to clarify the part numbers and locations to be installed because some of the reviews are misleading. The are 2 different brackets to be used depending on which of your manifold bolt heads sheared off.
Dorman 917-107 (This product) - Locations to be installed is for either the drivers side rear or passengers side front.
Dorman 917-142 (looks completely different) - Locations to be installed is either the driver side rear or passengers side front.
The reason is because the heads are basically the same but rotated 180 degrees. So be sure you get the correct part.
Okay, now to the installation. I had BOTH rear manifold bold head sheered off, so I needed both part numbers mentioned above. But this is the installation for the drivers side rear (917-107). As you will read from other reviews, it is in fact a pain in the butt. The heads are so close to the fire wall I was left with some scratched up knuckles from holding the fire was back to try to get the top bolt threaded. Note used some anti seize on the bolts. Anyways, you do want to start with the top bolt and come from the top of the engine. My truck (2009 Silverado 2500HD), already had a bolt with a ground strap attached to it (I believe that one was a 14mm, the bolts for this kit is a 9/16"). I removed that bolt (easy part) then you have to do a dance of holding the bracket with the ground strap, pushing the fire wall back and trying to find the hole (Come on, we''ve all been there) for the top bolt. It will depend on what vehicle you are working on as to where to position your body, but for my applicable I was basically sitting in the spare battery tray (where the second battery would go for a Duramax diesel). I have also seen pictures of some people laying on top of the engine. Anyways, it took my on the order of 10-15 minutes of doing this dance to finally get the treads started on the top bolt (by hand, no tools yet). I then started to tighten the bolt using a 9/16" ratcheting wrench (This tool is pretty key in saving time). There is not enough room with the bracket, bolt and fire wall to fit a socket wrench down there, so a normal box wrench is really you only choice and having a ratcheting one makes this WAY easier than a standard box wrench that you would have to line up basically a 1/8th of a turn because that is all the room you have. If you don''t have a ratcheting 9/16" wrench, you are on Amazon... Add it to your cart. I did not tighten it all the way, you want to leave it loose to the bracket is still kinda dangling for the bottom bolt. Thankfully with the top bolt threaded in, it does align the bottom hole of the bracket to the proper mounting position for the bottom bolt.
I have head mixed ways of getting to the bottom bolt, some come from the top others the bottom. For my application there was absolutely no way to get at it from the top, so I went from the bottom. If you have beef cake arms, I really don''t know how you will do it, but I have pretty slim arms and had just enough arm length to wedge it between the exhaust down pipe and torsion spring. Its a very awkward position, but I was able to get the bolt threaded. I then used a 9/16" socket with 2 swivels and about 24" worth of extensions to tighten the bolt because the location is to hard to get to... To confirm your thoughts, YES it did look sketchy but it works. There is no way to get a toque wrench either bolts, so get them pretty snug but don''t reef on them. If you strip the threads or sheer the bolt then you have just bought yourself into a head repair, which is the whole reason to buy this band aid fix anyways. After the bottom one was snug, I went back to the top bolt and snugged that one down with the ratcheting wrench.
Lastly the final bolt you want to use some high temp loctite and torque to spec (I think it was like 18 lbs-ft). That one is simple enough and straight forward. After I completed both sides and started the truck it was significantly better, but I gave and extra one flat turn on the bolt to the manifolds past the recommended torque just to give it a little extra sealing.
The whole process took about an hour.
Tick tick tick is gone so the brackets do work. The brackets really are more expensive than they should be (around $30), but it sure beats the price of removing the head.